How to paint by numbers: a complete beginner's guide

Updated · About 9 minutes to read

Paint by numbers is the most forgiving way to produce a painting you are genuinely proud of. The composition and the colour decisions are already solved, which leaves you free to concentrate on one thing: putting paint neatly inside a shape. This guide covers everything from the supplies that matter to the finishing steps that separate a fridge-door result from something you would hang in a hallway.

If you do not have a kit yet, you can turn one of your own photos into a free template in about thirty seconds and print it at home.

1. What you actually need

Kits bundle a lot of things you will never use. Here is the short list that changes the result:

For paint, acrylic is the standard. It is opaque, dries in minutes and covers printed lines in one or two coats. Gouache also works on heavy paper. Avoid watercolour entirely — it is too transparent, so the guide lines and numbers stay visible in the finished piece.

2. Preparing your canvas or print

Rolled canvases arrive with creases. Iron them from the back on a low, dry setting with a cloth in between, or lay the canvas face-down under heavy books overnight. Paint pools in a crease and dries with a visible ridge, so this five-minute step matters more than it sounds.

If you are printing a template at home, use 200 gsm paper or heavier. Standard 80 gsm office paper buckles as soon as it gets wet. For a canvas result, print the outline on plain paper, rub a soft graphite pencil over the back of the sheet, tape it face-up on a stretched canvas and trace the lines with a ballpoint pen — the transfer method professional kit makers use, and the reason our high-resolution PNG download exists.

Before your first brushstroke, open every paint pot and stir each one with a toothpick. Pigment settles during shipping, and an unstirred pot paints a much lighter, weaker version of the colour on the guide.

3. The painting order that works

There are two competing systems, and one is clearly better for beginners.

By number, light to dark — recommended

Paint every region marked 1 across the whole picture, then every region marked 2, and so on. Our generator numbers palettes from lightest to darkest specifically to support this. The advantages are practical: you only open one pot at a time, you rinse the brush far less, and if a darker colour later strays over a boundary it covers the lighter one cleanly. The reverse rarely works.

By area, section to section

Finishing one part of the picture completely before moving on is more satisfying, and it is the right choice if you can only paint in short sessions. The cost is constant colour switching and a much higher chance of smudging a neighbouring wet region.

Whichever you choose, work from the top of the canvas downward and, if you are right-handed, from left to right. Your painting hand then never rests on paint that is still wet.

4. Brush technique and coverage

5. Fixing mistakes

Nearly everything is recoverable with acrylic.

6. Sealing, framing and display

Let the finished painting cure for at least 24 hours — dry to the touch is not the same as cured. Then apply a single thin coat of acrylic varnish with a wide, soft brush in one direction. Matte varnish hides brush marks and avoids glare, which suits portraits. Satin deepens the colours slightly and is the safer all-round choice. Gloss looks striking under gallery lighting but reflects badly in a normal room.

Frame a canvas without glass so the paint texture stays visible — a simple floater frame reads as far more expensive than it is. For paper templates, mount the sheet on foam board first so it stays perfectly flat, then frame it behind glass with a mat.

Keep the finished piece out of direct sunlight. Acrylic pigment is reasonably light-fast, but the reds and violets in any inexpensive paint set will shift over a few years in a sunny window.

Common questions

How long does a paint by numbers take?

A 12 × 16 inch canvas with about 20 colours takes most people 6 to 10 hours, usually spread over three or four sessions. Detailed portraits with 30+ colours can run to 20 hours. Complexity is driven by the number of small regions far more than by canvas size.

Should I paint the background first or last?

First. Backgrounds are usually the largest, lightest areas, and getting them down early means any later overlap from the subject's darker colours covers cleanly rather than the other way around.

Can I mix my own colours instead of buying a kit?

Yes, and it is often cheaper. Our colour guide gives the exact hex value for every number, so you can match them from a set of tube acrylics using titanium white, mars black and the primaries. Mix a little extra of each — matching a shade a second time is much harder than making enough the first time.

My template has tiny regions I cannot paint. What now?

Either print larger, or regenerate the design with the detail slider lowered and smoothing raised — that merges slivers into their neighbours while keeping the same rich palette. As a rule, the smallest region should be at least 3 mm wide on the printed sheet.

Is paint by numbers good for adults?

It is one of the most popular adult hobbies for exactly the reason people find it calming: repetitive, low-stakes focus with a visible finished result. It is widely used as a wind-down activity, and unlike freehand painting there is no blank-canvas anxiety.

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